While plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the gap may need to be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap setting to ensure ignitability under higher pressure. The voltage requirement is directly proportional to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to jump the gap.
Most experienced tuners know that increasing the gap size increases the spark area exposed to the air-fuel mixture, which maximizes burn efficiency. For this reason, most racers add high-energy ignition systems.
The force should be applied ONLY on the spark plug ground electrode strap moving it closer or further away from the spark plug center electrode. The spark plug gap adjustment should not be changed more than 3 times and should not exceed.
Excessive changing of the spark plug gap setting will result in weakening of the spark plug ground electrode and can lead to breakage. Also, the spark plug gap should never exceed. Most Brisk and other manufacturer sparkplugs are preset to around 0. If your spark plug part number has no trailing digits then for most part numbers it will be preset to this specification. The " -T " indicate LGS style spark plug with a Tighter gap than standard LGS style spark plug and should be used on applications where the recommended gap setting is less than.
If there are trailing numbers after the part number, then the gap should be specifically set as per the manufacturer's part code designation e. Part numbering for Brisk, NGK and Denso spark plugs is reasonably logical with the trailing digits transposing directly into size in mm. For Champion spark plugs it is a little less logical and is as listed below:. Spark Plug Gap - understanding the basics.
Spark plug gap is where spark plug spark discharge is designed to take place. On a conventional spark plug, it is the area between the center and the ground electrode. As the spark always follow the path of least resistance, spark gap is generally the closest point between the spark plug center electrode and the spark plug ground electrode which is sometimes formed by the spark plug shell itself.
The only case when the spark will travel longer path to the ground, is when the longer path is more conductive provides less resistance. This can be caused for example by loss of insulating property of ceramic due to conductive carbon build up from the combustion process spark plug fouling.
Large spark plug gap setting demands higher voltage electrical pressure for spark to jump the large distance gap. That means that there is higher voltage build up in the ignition system ignition coil, distributor, ignition wires prior to the spark discharge. This is generally desired in applications with late model high output ignition coils and lower compression naturally aspirated engine applications where cylinder pressures are relatively low and easy for spark discharge to occur.
However running a large gap in high cylinder pressure application which makes it very hard for spark to occur , will demand such a high voltage electrical pressure for spark to jump the spark plug gap, that the spark will find an easier way to the ground, possibly where the igniton wire is close to the ground engine block etc So a small intense spark is much better than a big, weak spark, especially when dealing with richer fuel mixtures and more volumes of fuel being burned.
A good starting point and pretty much the all around best gap is. If you want to experiment to see what works best for your particular engine, ignition system, etc, then try going up to. Once you've gone bigger on the gaps, now try going smaller to. Whatever the gap was when the engine ran it's best overall, is where you should gap your plugs at.
Just an FYI; most very high powered blown gas, blown alcohol, and even blown fuelers run gaps as small as. Amps are what kill you when you get shocked.
Stun guns have up to 1 million volts, but no amps so they aren't lethal. Hell, static electricity you get when you shock yourself against a door knob or your car door can be upwards of , Volts or more, but does it kill you? Your house electrical current can kill you too, but it's only Volts, BUT it has 15 - 20 Amps pushing that Voltage behind it.
Get hit by your house's Volt system are you will most likely die. Not because of the Volts. Again, it isn't Volts that kill you think of a stun gun , it's Amps. Most Volt outlets are for running heavier equipment such as your dryer, a welder, etc, and have between 20 - 50 Amps behind them. That kind of current will light your ass up and fry you, but a 50, Volt jolt from a spark plug won't, unless you are screwing around with a serious ignition system like what a Top Alcohol or Fueler engine runs with 40 Amps behind them.
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